The
Fall 2013 shows come to a close in Paris today, and a quick survey of
the collections will tell you that punk is back in a big way: nails,
vinyl, and tartan at Versace, Mohawks at Fendi, spiky shoes at Anthony Vaccarello, chain boots and leather waders at Chanel,
the list goes on. British designer Zandra Rhodes, for one, is thrilled.
“A pair of safety pins is just as beautiful as embroidery,” she said of
punk’s place on the runway. And she should know—with her 1977
Conceptual Chic collection, Rhodes became one of the first (if not the
first) designers to translate the gritty, antiestablishment subculture
into high-fashion wares. “I had always done things covered in print, and
I had a very elegant shop [on Bond Street], but I suddenly wanted to
try out something different,” said Rhodes when asked why she made the
1977 collection, which earned her the title Princess of Punk.
Featuring
shredded pink, red, and black dresses, tops, and skirts held together
by bejeweled safety pins and chains, Conceptual Chic was a sharp
departure from the vivid printed party frocks and caftans for which
Rhodes was known. But that’s not to say the designer, who has, for the
past few decades, flawlessly multicolored hair and geometric makeup, was
a stranger to the punk spirit. “I don’t think a self-respecting street
punk would have described me as [a punk], but I had a very wild
appearance that was totally my own. And it was influenced by [punk
culture],” said Rhodes. “There was this whole street movement going on,
and I was really trying to look at it from another angle; I wanted to
see the beauty that could come from it,” she added, noting that Vivienne
Westwood’s die-hard punk designs were not a direct influence. “We
worked totally independently. Westwood was on one side of the scale,
working on her things, and I was on the other side, working on mine.
Neither of us have had any contact
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